The harbor at Morocco’s windsurfing capital, Essaouira, isn’t just for show. It’s got a real, working fleet of fishing boats. Morocco’s is the world’s leading exporter of canned sardines, but at the harbor you’ll find plenty of sole, mullet, sea bass, sea bream, squid, shrimp, skates and rays, even crabs and sharks.
Twenty or so open-air stalls beside the harbor will grill the catch of the day for you. All the prices are fixed, so the fierce competition for diners depends on the charm and persuasive powers of the stall-keeper. Or their ability to push the other touts out of the way.
The piles of bones and fish heads on every table are evidence of good eating on the Moroccan Atlantic.